My passion for the tall, chef-hat-like fruited brioche known as panettone has always been a point of curiosity. For me, it was never just a Christmas bread; it was a quest that began in the unlikeliest of places: the San Francisco airport in 2005. There, stacked in all their golden, domed glory, were the Emporio Rulli Panettone Milanese. That initial fascination soon demanded a pilgrimage. I decided to meet the master at his source, journeying to the Rulli bakery in historic downtown Larkspur—a quaint Marin County town just twenty minutes across the Golden Gate Bridge. I met Emporio, and though he was generous with his spirit, he guarded his recipe like a sacred text. He didn’t give it away, but I swore to myself, standing in that hallowed space, that one day I would learn to make it the right way, just as he does. I soon learned why the recipe is so fiercely protected. Often called the world’s most complicated brioche, a successful panettone lives or dies by its cultivated sourdough starter, the lievito madre. This is a living, breathing entity that requires a baker’s devotion. I know this now, but my path was not always so pure. In the past, I’ve taken shortcuts, like in my “Quick Panettone” video, enhanced with the forbidden ingredient: commercial yeast. I received my share of critics, and rightly so. Make no mistake, there is absolutely no comparison whatsoever with the traditional panettone made according to the best practices. It took me twenty years to earn this knowledge. But now, after this journey, I can finally offer you the keys. With this video and recipe, you will be able to pierce all the secrets to making the flawless panettone you have ever dreamed of achieving one day. The real deal!
