Chicken Breast with Morel Sauce

Of all the accompaniments to white meat, few can rival the profound, earthy luxury of a noble morel sauce. This is not a mere mushroom gravy, but a transformation—a velvety reduction where the morel's deep, woodsy essence is underscored by the savory, nutty whisper of Parmigiano-Reggiano. It is a sauce that demands a worthy subject. And so, we turn to the chicken breast (here poularde), often humble, here exalted through a study in contrasts. For this recipe, we will prepare two perfect expressions of the form. The first: a breast slowly seared, skin-side down in foaming butter until the epidermis shatters into a sheet of golden, crisp topography. The second: a skinless breast, gently poached in an aromatic bouillon until it achieves a state of ethereal, quivering tenderness. A celebration of subtlety and depth, ideal for marking a moment meant to be remembered.

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Soak the dried morels the day before as suggested in the recipe.

Poularde vs Chicken Breast

The difference between a regular chicken breast and one from a poularde is that a poularde is a young hen that has been specially fattened. Similar to a capon (which is a castrated male chicken), it yields a larger, plumper breast. This recipe calls for 2 large poularde (about 350g each) or 4 regular chicken breasts. Since cooking time depends on the thickness of the meat, please note: while a regular chicken breast takes roughly 15 minutes to cook through (to an internal temperature of 150ºF/65°C, the thicker poularde breast requires about 8 to 10 minutes longer.

The Searing Method for Chicken Breast

In a saute pan or skillet, melt butter and oil over medium heat. Add the herbs and the crushed garlic (skin on). Season the pan with salt (this helps create a non-stick effect). Once the fat is sizzling, place the chicken skin-side down and season the exposed flesh. Sear the breast(s) over medium-low heat: 20 minutes for a large breast (poularde/capon) or 10-12 minutes for a regular chicken breast.
Toward the end, add a generous piece of butter and begin basting the meat regularly. Once the required time has passed and the cooked meat appears pale about two-thirds of the way up the side, reduce the heat to low and flip the breast. Cook for 2 more minutes, then remove the pan from the heat.
Let the meat rest for 5 minutes; it will continue to cook gently from residual heat. Then transfer the seared chicken breast to a plate.
Use the fond left in the pan as the base to start your morel sauce. In the same pan (remove some fat if too much).
Add the rendered juice into the finish morel sauce.

Plating 1

Reheat the chicken in the oven or in a pan (skin-side down) for about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, generously coat the cooked pappardelle with the morel sauce.
Slice the poularde breast (this serves two). Season the exposed flesh with fleur de sel and freshly ground black pepper.
Top pasta with the sliced chicken and drizzle with additional morel sauce.

The Poaching Method for Chicken Breast

Season the poularde supreme or breast with salt.
Place the seasoned chicken in the sautoir and add enough cold chicken stock to come partially up the sides (the meat does not need to be completely submerged). Bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat, then immediately reduce the heat to maintain a very low simmer (barely bubbling). Cover the pan and simmer gently for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the chicken reaches 145°F/63°C.
Transfer the meat to a plate to rest. Reserve the poaching liquid for use in your morel sauce.

Plating 2

Slice the poularde breast (this serves two). Season the exposed flesh with fleur de sel and freshly ground black pepper.
Top hot pasta with the poached chicken breast.
Generously coat the meat with morel sauce and garnish the dish with vegetables, if desired. Bon appétit!