Beef Wellington

You know the scene. You’re at a celebrated restaurant, the silver domes are lifted with a flourish, and there it is: the majestic Beef Wellington. A golden, flaky parcel promising tender beef and earthy duxelles within. You sink your fork through the pastry, only to be met with a heart-sinking reality—a layer of pale, damp, underdone pastry clinging to the meat like a wet blanket. It’s the most common failure, the Waterloo of many a skilled chef. But it doesn't have to be this way. The secret is to break with tradition entirely and wrap your masterpiece in brioche dough. Why brioche? While classic puff pastry is a marvel, its hundreds of paper-thin layers are designed to steam apart into delicate flakes. This is its weakness; when pressed against the moist, steam-releasing filling of a Wellington, those bottom layers often surrender before they have a chance to crisp up. Brioche, with its rich, eggy, and slightly sweet composition, is a different beast. It’s more substantial, more forgiving. It bakes up to a deep, golden-brown, yielding a crust that is crisp and sturdy on the outside, yet soft and pillowy where it meets the beef. It’s less of a delicate pastry shell and more of an embrace—a buttery, robust casing that contains the juices without becoming sodden. The subtle sweetness of the dough also creates a sublime counterpoint to the savory, umami-rich filling of mushrooms and beef, a harmony that will have your guests wondering what your magic touch could be. So, let us leave the soggy disappointments of restaurants in the past. It's time to roll up your sleeves and create a Wellington that is flawless from the center to the crust.

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A highly regarded classic

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Mushroom Duxelles

The key to a good duxelles is removing as much moisture as possible from the mushrooms before and during cooking. This concentrates their flavor and prevents a soggy final product. Place the mushrooms in a large bowl full of water. Gently agitate them with your hands for about 1 minute to loosen any dirt or debris. Quickly drain the mushrooms in a colander. Do not let them sit in water, as they will begin to absorb it.
Spread the drained mushrooms onto a clean kitchen towel or several layers of paper towels. Using a paring knife, trim off the very dry, tough end (the "foot") of each mushroom stem. Working in batches if necessary, place the cleaned and trimmed mushrooms into a food processor.
Pulse the machine repeatedly until the mushrooms are evenly chopped into a coarse, meal-like texture. Be careful not to over-process them into a puree.
Heat a large, dry skillet over medium-high heat. Add the processed mushrooms and salt. Do not add any fat. oil. The goal is to evaporate the mushrooms' internal water. Cook, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes. The mushrooms will first release a large amount of liquid. Continue cooking until all the liquid in the skillet has evaporated. Spread the cooked duxelles onto a baking sheet in a thin, even layer. Let cool and refrigerate.

Searing Meat

Season the meat generously with salt. Heat a drizzle of oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Sear the meat for 3-4 minutes per side, until a deep brown crust forms. Remove the filet from the pan, brush it evenly with mustard, season with pepper and let it rest.

Wrapping the Meat

Lay a large piece of plastic wrap on your work surface. Arrange the sliced prosciutto in a rectangular, slightly overlapping layer, wide enough to completely envelop the beef fillet. Spread the mushroom duxelles in a thin, even layer over the prosciutto. Place the beef fillet in the center. Using the plastic wrap as an aid, carefully lift the edge and tightly roll the prosciutto and duxelles around the beef, twisting the ends of the plastic wrap to form a firm, compact cylinder. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes (or up to overnight) to set firmly.
On a lightly floured surface, roll your brioche dough into a rectangle about 1/8 inch (4mm) thick, large enough to wrap around the chilled beef parcel. Brush the entire surface of the dough with egg wash. Unwrap the chilled beef parcel from the plastic wrap and place it in the center of the dough. Fold the two shorter ends over the beef, then wrap the longer sides around to fully enclose it, pressing gently to seal. Carefully trim any thick excess dough from the seams. Place the Wellington seam-side down on a baking tray.
Chill the assembled Wellington, uncovered, for 10-15 minutes to allow the dough to firm up. This prevents it from shrinking dramatically in the oven. Using the tip of a paring knife, score the top of the pastry with your desired pattern.

Baking

Preheat fan oven to 330ºF/160ºC. Bake Wellington for 35 minutes, or until the center of the meat reaches 125ºF/52ºC. Note that the crust holds in steam and heat, thus enhancing the effects of carryover cooking. Let rest 20 minutes before carving. Slice and season with fleur de sel and ground black pepper. Enjoy!

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